Inis Oirr
22 September 2018
The ferry from Doolin Pier to Inis Oirr was quick and smooth. The air out on the water was chilly for sure, and the sky kept teasing some rain, but we got there without any issue.
Besides, this is Ireland. The sky always teases some rain!
Inis Oirr – literally meaning ‘Little Island’ and often Anglicized to ‘Inisheer’- is the smallest of the three Aran Islands that lie off the west coast of County Clare just beyond the Cliffs of Moher. Sitting out in the ocean, they are possibly the best representation of rugged Western Ireland, their flat grounds offering little protection from the fierce Atlantic weather. There may be modern conveniences on the island these days, but traditionally life there was very hard. Even being in the modern world there are still many challenges they face. On Inis Oirr, there is one store to get your groceries, and it is a very small one at that. Pretty much everything involves taking a boat to the mainland. Fresh water can be a luxury and is rationed at times, and upon our arrival found it to still be limited due to continued replenishment from the summer. Even the most modern structures face severe punishment at the hands of the fierce, unrelenting Atlantic coastal weather. Life on the island is easier than it ever has been, but easier than it was before isn’t exactly the same thing as easy.
Just past the ferry dock is a little bicycle rental stand. We debated getting bikes but decided we were going to walk to the B&B instead. We found ourselves fallen into a bit of conversation with the bike rental owner – a common occurrence in Ireland – and barely began to mention where we were staying when she said, “Oh, Kieran’s place!” They know each other. Of course they know each other, on a rural island this small everyone has to know everyone else!
The directions to the B&B didn’t include road names or street signs, they were rural directions at their finest. “Follow the road past the pub, around the curve, and continue on the winding road up the hill. Turn right at the yellow water pump.” It was still a bit early to check in, so we decided to wander around the village area near the pier.
One of the defining features of the Aran Islands is the endless maze of stone walls. Most stand between waist and shoulder high, and are arranged in seemingly random patterns across the landscape. Apparently, they serve the purpose of keeping the grazing livestock contained and likely have something to do with property lines as well, but the walls were originally built in ancient times as they needed a useful place to put all the stones that they cleared from the fields. The stone walls are actually a feature of much of Western Ireland, but on the Aran Islands they really dominate the landscape. It is incredible to think how long these walls have been here and yet we are there, walking among them. Maybe the walls we see today have been rebuilt over and over and aren’t the exact ones built by ancient peoples, but they are built in the same place with the same stones in the same way and for the same purpose. This is a living tradition spanning thousands of years!!!
The island breeze was a bit cool, but the day was far from cold and at times even warm while standing in the sunlight. There was a distinct lack of trees, lots of the houses were whitewashed with stained wood or colorful trim, the ground was rocky, and town had a very “island” feel to it. The sea was in sight no matter where we stood. We kept thinking to ourselves how much Inis Oirr felt like Greece. There were distinct differences for sure, and the North Atlantic is not exactly the Mediterranean, but both places had a very similar feel to them, enough so that we weren’t sure if lunch was going to include a pint of Guinness or Ouzo on ice!
We made our way down to the waterside by the pier to find the road to the B&B. Most of the shoreline was rocky, but there was one section smoothed out into a very nice sandy beach. It was a bit too cool for any beach lounging or swimming, but we decided to give it a look over anyway. Just as we approached the water, we saw a dolphin break the surface only a few feet from the shore! She was beautiful, but quick... I never had the chance to get her spotted and focused before she went back under. We have come to learn the islanders call her Sandy; and though she is a wild dolphin, she does know a few of the local fishermen on the island. Her pod typically hangs around the Cliffs of Moher, but she swings by Inis Oirr for a visit occasionally. The fishermen who know her can get in the water with her, but other people make her nervous so you are advised to keep a distance. That’s too bad, I’d love to go for a swim with her!
We started back following the directions to the B&B, though didn’t make it much further than the pub we were supposed to walk past. This is a very small island, and there are only a few places that have food of any kind. Tigh Ned is one of those places, a nice old Irish Pub!
The pub is something that is part of the Irish soul, and definitely one of the Emerald Isle’s most popular exports. The role has changed much over the years, from the communal gathering point, grocer, and post office to the more modern bar and restaurant. It is still vital to local communities like in the Aran Islands. Want to see friends? Go to the pub. Hungry? Hit the pub. Looking for entertainment? Pub. In reality, the pub is so much more than just about going for a drink. Irish pubs at home get rather sloppy quite frequently, but here people tend to have a bit more control. It’s really a place you go to be social, not blacked-out drunk. Our afternoon at the pub consisted of a couple of toasted sandwiches and a nice cider. First pub stop in Ireland was nice and low-key.
