At the southeastern end of the Vatnajökull Glacier, the ice sheet flows down the mountain and icebergs break free into the freezing Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon. The atmosphere is magical, the air biting cold, and the ice varies in amazing shapes and textures, with brilliant blue color, from giant icebergs down to small icy gems we can hold. This has been one of my favorite places so far!

Crossing an impossibly flat and desolate landscape, like something from another barren planet, we made our way to Skaftafell. Part of the Vatnajökull Glacier and National Park, Skaftafell is an area with a waterfall in one direction and a glacier sheet in another. We had time for just one, so we went to explore the glacial ice, the almost tropical colored pools, and the sudden drop in temperature!

A little grouping of basalt rock formations called Dverghamrar sits just along the roadside on the southern Ring Road. It isn’t a big place, but still a nice quiet spot with beautiful views, amazing rock formations, and corralling horses is a good place to stop for a driving break anyway!

Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon is a beautiful, awe inspiring sight in southern Iceland… and one we were lucky to see! It was closed to visitors for some time due to damage to the landscape from people choosing not to respect the fragile environment, but luckily it had reopened just before our arrival. We explore this magnificent place and revel in its breathtaking scenery, while hoping people will choose to be responsible and respectful of the landscape in the future.

Stopping for the night at the Kleifar Campsite, we settled in for a cold night in a campground without many resources. To make up for that, it sat right next to the beautiful Stjórnarfoss waterfall!

As we drove along Iceland’s southern Ring Road, we encountered these mysterious green blobs that covered the landscape as far as the eye could see! The Skaftáreldahraun Green Lava Fields were such a unique, otherworldly place we had to stop and explore. We discover what these blobs actually are, walk a trail through these unique fields, and even learn about their special impact on world history!

Sand as black as ink… Basalt columns protruding from the ground and towering far overhead... Troll-caves leading back into the basalt and lava-rock cliffs... Sea stacks rising from the ocean like the towers of an evil fortress… Stunning views of the Dyrhólaey cliffs extending out to sea… This is the Reynisfjara beach. As beautiful as it is dark, as awe-inspiring as it is dangerous, Reynisfjara is a natural wonderland that seems lifted straight from fantasy…

Having a plan is good, but it always pays to leave some wiggle room for the unexpected. As we traveled down the Ring Road toward Vik, we passed by the Sólheimajökull Glacier. The road back to Sólheimajökull looked absurdly scenic, and at the end of the road was a completely unique landscape and a glacier! How could we not go check it out??!?!

Skógafoss is another majestic waterfall along Iceland’s southern coast, Falling almost 200 feet over a brilliant green cliff and kicking up a mist that crates beautiful rainbows, Skógafoss is a must see waterfall in a land known for waterfalls. Come follow as we explore Skógafoss and the amazing landscape of the surrounding countryside!

Right off Iceland’s main Rt 1 - the famous “Ring Road” - is the towering Seljalandsfoss. Ribbons of water fall close to 200 feet into the little pool, sending a soaking spray through the air. The trail takes us alongside the falls right beside the pool before leading us through the cave behind the water!

The Brúarhlöð Canyon is a beautiful natural landscape right off the busy Golden Circle, yet surprisingly off the radar of most visitors. It was off ours as we stumbled upon it unexpectedly as we stopped at a picnic spot for a quick breakfast, only to find the majestic canyon and the mysterious silvery-gray water waiting for us!

Faced with a long drive back to the coast, we decided instead to stop at a campground with a restaurant conveniently located right between Gullfoss and Geysir on the Golden Circle route. A nice sit down for a great pizza was a welcome break, as the July night was beginning to get really cold!

This magnificent waterfall was one of the most anticipated stops on our journey through Iceland! An enormous rush of water cascading down to a plummet into a beautiful canyon, Gullfoss is a standout waterfall in a land known for waterfalls. We felt the rush of the water as it crashed into the rocks, got a bit wet from the spray, and if the falls weren’t gorgeous enough… we were treated to a rainbow arching over the canyon!

The Haukadalur Geothermal Area is a hotbed of underground volcanic activity spewing to the surface… literally! From the sulfuric yellow landscape to the deep blue pools of boiling hot water filling underground caverns to the awe-inspiring Geysir - the tower of water shooting hundreds of feet into the air whose name gives us the word “geyser” - Haukadalur is a natural wonderland along Iceland’s Golden Circle!

Iceland is famous for its hot spring pools and spas. Instead of dealing with the expense and tourist crowds of the more famous Blue Lagoon, we chose to explore the smaller hot springs… which brought us to Laugarvatn Fontana. We experience Icelandic hot spring spa culture as we relax in the warm water, venture off to the chilly lake, and sweat it out in a natural geothermal vent sauna!

Kerið is an extinct volcano whose crater has filled with the most magnificent blue water. There is a trail up around the crest of the volcano for an amazing perspective, and another down around the lake that lets you get up close with the refreshing water. It was hard to resist the urge to just jump in!

Our first night of camping in Iceland was at Þorlákshöfn Campground, a little under an hour away from the city. We pulled in with our camper van, and had to learn the ropes best we could as it was closing in on midnight despite the sun still glowing on the horizon. The van was cozy and comfortable… and nothing follows a fine night sleep better than a camp-cooked breakfast!

Our evening in Reykjavik, where “night” is a title only! We watch as the hours creep later and later, with the sun still shining bright in the sky. We visit the Grótta Island Lighthouse and go shell hunting on the beach, reflect on social differences at a geothermal beach, then head to Laugavegur for a “night” at the pub!

One of the most exciting parts of our adventure through Iceland was that we were going to experience it in a camper van! A converted Ford Transit Connect cargo van from Solstice Campers would be our home for the entire trip, and we couldn’t wait to get our hands on it to check it out and start exploring!

Venturing along the waterline, we come to the Reykjavik Old Harbour! A working harbor with all kinds of ships and amazing views, we explore the area, climb the Þúfa mound, and enjoy a lunch and local brew at the Bryggjan Brugghús. But down at the harbor, it’s all about watching the boats!!

With Hallgrimskirkja behind us on the hill, we trek through the streets of Reykjavik, exploring the quaint shops, artsy murals, and cozy cafes. What a great city! We stop for a bit before heading down to the water to see the Sun Voyager, a famous and amazing sculpture celebrating the island’s Viking roots!

Fermented Shark. Pickled sheep heads. Sour blubber. Stinky skate. Dung-smoked fish... traditional Icelandic dishes can read like a horror story! The harsh climate and isolated location meant historically the people had to improvise, and the scary sounding food is less scary than starving to death. But with modern times come modern changes, and not all of the old dishes can be this scary… can they?

Our first stop in Iceland was the magnificent Hallgrimskirkja in Reykjavik! Fresh off the bus from the airport early in the morning, we had the whole area to ourselves! We check out the church and marvel at the splendid architecture, pay homage to the great Icelandic explorer Leif Erikson, and delve a bit into Ásatrú, the ancient religion of the Vikings that is having a modern resurgence!

Come along as we begin our adventure through Iceland! We explore the language and culture, the strange and wonderful foods, the trendy capital Reykjavik, the amazing nature and landscape, and the daylight that lasts all 24 hours… all from the comfort of our camper van!

Our last night in Ireland, and it can only be spent in one way - with the local music! We explore the town of Doolin and and old tower castle before heading back to Lisdoonvarna for the most fitting farewell to Ireland… great food, great drinks, great music, and as the Irish say, great craic!

Nature does amazing things. At the Bridges of Ross, we followed an old Victorian pastime as we crossed over the natural rock bridge and stood over the sea, before continuing on further down the peninsula to an old lighthouse, WWII era markers, and a piece of Irish folklore!

Driving down toward Loop Head, we had the chance to stop at the little seaside town of Kilkee. While it may offer great swimming in season, the wind was bitter cold and the sea was rough, crashing to the shore with force!

Sometimes a normal hotel is just too boring. With all the amazing places out there, why settle for boring? We traded in the normal hotel by the airport for an amazing experience with wonderful people at a farm stay in County Clare!

After a long week through quaint countrysides and tiny islands, we finally made our way into the city! Our exploration in Galway took us to a gourmet grocer, a great Irish pub, a huge cathedral, and a posh tea room… all while wandering down the city’s famous old streets!

Today we said our farewell to An Nead cottage in beautiful Connemara. It was ten years since our last stay… hopefully it won’t be another ten before we get back there!

After a scenic cruise through the Connemara countryside, we settle in by Galway Bay for a sunset, great seafood, great music in a fun pub, and we even got to make a new friend!

We drove the full way around Sky Road for amazing views and great driving. We decided to keep going along the coast, and found ourselves taking a very unique way to get across the sea to Omey Island!

From the famous Sky Road you can look down on the ruins of Clifden Castle, but this time we found a way to actually go into the ruins and see it up close! We set off down the trail to explore the castle ruins, from the crumbling old walls to the towering turret and the overgrown outbuildings!

Our return to Clifden brings us back to a favorite cafe in search of good coffee and the apparently famous carrot cake, before hitting a proper whiskey pub along the main street of town. We make our way out to the famous Sky Road for incredible sunset views that lead into an amazingly clear Irish night!

Roundstone is a charming little fishing village along the Connemara coast with bright colored houses and boat-filled harbor. We venture to the pier, sample some local seafood, and get in some culture at the traditional music center before a breathtaking stop along a secluded country road!

Cnoc Suain was the center of our honeymoon ten years ago. It was where we made our home base, it was the site of the little village on the hill with our cottage An Nead. It was where we woke every morning to the stillness of the Irish countryside or the thrill of running through the fields with the dogs and pony. Today, we revisit the land of Cnoc Suain, walking those same bogs and fields, passing through those amazing buildings, and learning of how they’ve grown since our last visit.

We hit a couple of Connemara pubs on an amazingly clear Irish night! First we stopped in Ougtherard where we had a great meal with beers and music. After a bit of a craft brewing rant, we found our way back to Spiddal on the coast to check out a place we heard had quality session music… and were treated to a performance by one of the greats!

The Connemara seaside is a wild and rugged coast, full of rocky shorelines, sprawling bogland, and small natural beaches. We went seeking some of these beaches today. We returned to Coral Beach, with its rocky micro-environments and grainy coral instead of sand, before exploring the textures and colors along the White Strand!

We head west along the Galway Bay coastline toward the sea, stopping in the seaside town of Spiddal and talking a bit on the preservation and resurgence of the Irish Language as we venture along the coast!

After a great dinner on the pier at Barna, we headed into the Salthill section of Galway city, where we found a great pub with great beers and great people. If you don’t have a fun night at the pub, can you really say you were in Ireland?

After ten years away, we finally make it back to the lovely little cottage An Nead! Tucked back in the bogland in a rediscovered pre-famine village on a cultural center site with amazing hosts, An Nead is where we stayed over our honeymoon. It is one of our most favorite places in the world, and now we’re back!

Ten years had gone by since out honeymoon, ten years since we left our heart rock with a message in the box at the seaside grotto. We’ve often wondered what became of that stone. Was it moved or taken out? Was it still there? Today we will find out for sure!

In September of 2008, on our honeymoon in Ireland, we found a personal treasure on a hike up a mountain… a wedding gift from the lovely Emerald Isle herself! We returned to a seaside grotto with our gift, and left it to absorb all of the powerful energy of this place, and also some of that Irish luck! And so began our heart’s ten-year stay in Ireland…

In the town of Westport, Co. Mayo, we adventured out for some good seafood. But first, an amazing sunset over the Quay couldn’t be missed! We bid farewell to our Hobbit Hole, and then ventured further south to Co. Galway, into the town of Letterfrack, to find even more of the best Irish waters had to offer…

Achill Island - Ireland’s largest island - sits just off the Mayo coast along the Wild Atlantic Way. A beautiful, natural spot with dramatic scenery and great history, we couldn’t wait to dig in! We stopped at a wild rocky beach, saw dramatic cliffs and crashing waves, climbed up a muddy mountain, and visited a famine-era abandoned village!

The rugged coastline in northern County Mayo is covered in bogland. Known as the Atlantic Blanket Bog, this amazing landscape sheds the typical view of Ireland from the emerald green to much more rustic shades of brown. We venture into the bog, walking through the grassland, capturing the breathtaking views, and learning much about this important natural wonder.

Rockfleet Castle sits on the rugged coastline of County Mayo. The castle is literally built into the sea! Wandering around the seabed at low tide, we got wonderful views of the castle and the surrounding nature… and thought on the life of its most famous resident, the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley!

Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way… a route stretching along the west coast of Ireland that shows off the most rugged, natural, stunning wild landscape the country has to offer. Over the next week of our anniversary trip, we will explore the nature and history of this beautiful area!

“In a hole in the ground there lived a hobbit…” And for a couple nights, we lived there too! My nerdy side went into meltdown mode as we followed in the footsteps of Bilbo Baggins to Mayo Glamping and our very own hobbit-hole!

Ooooooh, Lisdoonvarna! Lisdoon- Lisdoon- Lisdoonvarna! The song stuck in our heads as we passed into the pretty little town, home of the famous Matchmaker’s Fair for lonely singles. No fair today, but we did make a stop at one of our favorite culinary destinations, The Burren Smokehouse!

Our morning on Inis Oirr was started with a full Irish breakfast before time exploring the beach and the little village. Eventually we caught our ferry back to Doolin… but found ourselves on an unexpected detour by the Cliffs of Moher!

Returning from the MV Plassey brought us to the highest point of the island with old castle ruins and an amazing view. What’s left with a night on a small Irish island than to stop at the pub?

The MV Plassey wrecked on the rocky coast of Inis Oirr back in the 1960s, and has rested on the shoreline since, where it slowly rusts and decays in the salty air. The road around the island passes by the wreck, and it’s an easy climb through the stones to get right down to the old ship! From the shore there are not only great views of the wreck, but also of the Inis Oirr lighthouse and the Cliffs of Moher in the distance…

The Church of St Cavan is a ruin on the Irish island of Inis Oirr. Excavated from being mostly buried in the ground, St Cavan’s is an amazing site to see! The patron saint of the Aran Islands, St Cavan himself is buried alongside the old church. We ventured through the old stone archways to explore inside the ruins…

We took the ferry to Inis Oirr, the smallest of the Aran Islands. Life by the sea dominated the world here. We walked the rural roads, with the bright green fields crisscrossed by the random pattern of ancient stone walls, found the local dolphin, and dropped into our first pub back in Ireland!

Finally back in Ireland! Ten years has been way too long. We start off running, getting back into the swing of Irish driving as we rushed down to Doolin Pier. Arriving early, we explored the otherworldly terrain along the coastline, full of unique rock formations and micro-environments that felt like another planet!

Ten years ago we embarked on the biggest adventure of our lives when we were married on September 27, 2008. Immediately after, we took off for our next adventure in Ireland! We loved our time there, and have been thinking for years about when is the best time to go back… and what better time than for our 10 year anniversary?

Ten years ago on our honeymoon in Ireland, on the advice of a local we met in the town of Athenry, we found our way to Coral Beach. It was a beautiful, rugged, wild coastline full of sea life and dramatic rock formations, truly an amazing place to see... but where was the coral that gave the beach its name?

When one thinks of Walmart, they likely have a mental image of shopping chaos.  I know I do, anyway.  Walmart in my home city was always overly crowded and overly loud, a hectic experience in sensory overload. 

This also is a fair description of a city in China.

So when we encountered...

An Irish story for St. Patrick’s Day! On the edge of Counties Clare and Galway, a confusing wrong turn leads us deep into the rural countryside, where we stumbled on old ruins, emerald green fields, and a stroke of that old Irish luck!

We spent our last night of this trip in Zurich, where we walked the familiar streets to find amazing cheese and a favorite hang out spot full of great drinks and great music.

We climbed up the mountain roads on the western side of Switzerland, taking the long and scenic route back to Zurich. And scenic it was! Along with the pastel fields, green forests, and cow-filled pastures, we stumbled on a slice of absolute heaven snuggled right between the cliffs and the road!

A stroll through Eguisheim before we headed off dropped us into the middle of a festive morning! There were musicians set up outside the main square, tables set up with wine and snacks, people from the town out mingling and having fun, and a local cycle group riding through with a local mayor.

It was an evening of unforgettable experiences in the medieval town of Eguisheim. We were brought down into the family cellar of an amazing winery, stopped by a cafe with an unexpected surprise, and finished out the last night in Alsace with local culinary treasures. C’est magnifique!

Castle Hohlandsbourg is a castle ruin reclaimed and preserved. We walked the old castle walls, checked out their museum, learned lots about castle life from their displays, and listened to some great music.. all while keeping an eye on the angry skies overhead.

In the center of Eguisheim is the Chateau Saint-Léon, with its beautifully painted church filled to the brim with the most amazing detail.

We made our way back to the wonderful little town of Eguisheim. Very likely my favorite town in the world, I couldn’t wait to walk through those medieval streets and see everything we could! We had amazing food, great drinks, saw the most beautiful contrasts, and settled in to a nice pub for a fun end to the night. What more could you want?

We stroll around Ribeauville on our last morning in town, tasting wine, talking with locals, and seeking out a unique bottle of a beverage most wouldn’t imagine!

An evening stroll through beautiful Kaysersberg led us to one of the most exquisite meals of our lives. As we recount the evening, we reflect upon the passing of a mentor of sorts, who spent his final moments a mere few yards from this fantastic restaurant in this lovely town.

Niedermorschwihr - a little town with a big name - is home to Maison Ferber Au Relais des 3 Epis, a famous gourmet shop and a true Alsatian culinary destination. We sought out the highly prized jellies from Christine Ferber, walked through the picturesque town, and ultimately stopped at a scenic lookout point where we had an unexpected adventure and a moment of panic!

High on the mountain, in the hills of Troi-Epis, there sits a cemetery in the forest that is the final resting place for many German soldiers, most who lost their lives in the First Wold War. A truly somber experience that led to a lot of reflection upon war and its many victims, it was also a unique place that gives a more personal side of history.

Our return to the impossibly beautiful town of Kaysersberg was a stop we have long been looking forward to, as we didn’t spend as much time here before. Around every corner we found ourselves in awe over the sheer incredible beauty of this place, from the integrated nature to the colorful buildings and the surrounding hills and vineyards. We followed in Albrecht Schweitzer’s footsteps, visited a memorial to fallen WWII soldiers, wound down with great coffee, and gave in to the temptation of the many amazing pastry shops. And the skulls? Yes, we went back to visit the skulls!

Just outside Kaysersberg is the little town of Keintzheim. Most I knew of the little town was that it had old walls and a WWII era tank sitting at the entrance. We did find the walls and the tank, but also found a little village that was empty of people at the moment, yet packed full of charm!

After seeking out an eau-du-vie distillery and exploring a new part of Ribeauville we haven’t been through before, we decide to make the quick trip back to Riquewihr for dinner! We strolled through the empty evening streets as everyone was at their own meals, and settled in to Winstub Tire Bouchon at Maison Zimmer. The night was ended with a perfect stroll through town after dark, the lights and night sky lending a different kind of beauty to this pretty town.

An afternoon in Riquewihr spent savoring the town’s many flavors. Outstanding wine at Maison Zimmer, cheese at Les Caves d’Affinage, and eye candy of the beautiful old streets and buildings of the town. As the sky grew dark and the rain poured down, we took shelter on the covered patio of Brasserie du Vignoble, the little brewery in wine country…

The beautiful little town of Riquewihr welcomed us back this morning! Every square centimeter of Riquewihr is absurdly picturesque, and is easily one of the prettiest towns I’ve ever seen. We walked through the town, covering about every street and tiny alley within the walls, hunted down a larger kugelhopf pan to go with our small one, and finished out the morning at Hugel Winery!

We wound down after the long day’s hike with a quiet evening in Ribeauville. A nice meal was had out on the cobblestones of the square by the fountain, but not before our first big stork sighting!

Continuing on the hike from Saint-Ulrich Castle, we come to the second of the three castles of Ribeauville - Girsberg Castle! We climb to the ancient ruins, enjoy the incredible views of the valley, town, and Saint-Ulrich, and recount an old legend that centers on the people who once lived in these two stone fortresses…

Saint Ulrich was one of three castles that stood on the mountain overlooking Ribeauville. We wandered through the walls, imagining the rooms we were walking through and how they once looked. We stood above the row of windows from the Salle des Chevaliers, and took in the fantastic view of Ribeauville, Castle Girsberg, and the mountains and valleys in the distance…

We set off on the hike up to Notre Dame de Duzenbach, taking the long way of course. At the top of the hill we found the monastery with its simple church, smaller chapel, and it’s insistence on silence!

Sometimes a calm, relaxing morning is what you need on a trip. We wandered the streets of Ribeauville, looking at the amazing architecture, practicing our language skills, and having a nice lunch before we set out on our hike!

After making a lot of effort, saving, and budgeting, we are finally back in Alsace! We arrived the same time as a rain storm, but we won’t let that bring us down… rather, it emptied the streets so when it stopped we had a pleasant stroll where it felt like the whole town was only ours!

We continued through the Black Forest along the back roads, with views over hills and fields to mountains beyond. We stopped in Sankt Peter, a little town with a very big church!

We took a slow, relaxed morning just enjoying the area around Brend. The view over the forest and mountains is just exquisite while relaxing in the calm fields. We climbed the tower, had amazing breakfast, and set off for Hexenlochmühle… the forest building with the working water wheel, patio cafe, and the amazing smoked deli!

Sometimes the best way to see a magnificent castle is from a distance. After visiting Burg Hohenzollern, touring its palace rooms and walking the battlements, we decided to hike up to the top of Zeller Horn and find the best vantage point to see the castle as a whole!

The beautiful Burg Hohenzollern is an amazing fantasy castle, both elegant and imposing with the power to capture your imagination. We hiked up to the gate, crossed into the Kingdom of Prussia, looked up to the towers piercing the sky, and explored magnificent palace… and had quite a view to go along with it all!

A morning feast in Brend was the perfect start to the day, especially as since getting into the woods and hiking on some trails are part of the plan! We take an easy-going trail through the forest to the Balzer Herrgott tree carving, and just let ourselves get in touch with the forest that surrounds us.

Back to the Black Forest! It feels so much like home here. We visited the Rothaus Brewery where we tasted beers and looked at all their goodies, then spent the evening in our woodland hotel feasting on spargel and watching the late night sunset!

When we passed through Alsace before, we hardly had enough time. We wanted to go back sooner rather than later, but was it even possible?

A little Nissan Micra, an intense Irish road full of hills, hairpin turns, and free-roaming sheep, and an insanely high speed limit all combine to make the wildest drive we were never expecting to take!

New Year’s Day in Niagara-on-the-Lake! We spent the day in parks, driving through the snow, visiting wineries and a brewery, and ventured out to our favorite shipwreck that was frozen in the ice!

New Year’s Eve! We brave the cold Canadian day as we venture to wineries (including one of our all time favorites) and grab a quick lunch before spending the evening with my first ever hockey game in Canada. GO DOGS GO!

A long drive up to Canada deserved a stop off at the Flying Saucer diner in Niagara Falls. The next morning was cold and snowy, but a hearty breakfast and meeting a Hall of Fame hockey player at the Blue Line Diner was a nice warm up! We visited a few wineries, went down to the shoreline of a frozen Lake Ontario, and had an amazing night at our favorite British pub!